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サケマスの現状

本日は水産特集になってしまいました。北海新聞の2000年の記事をみつけました。
鮭鱒特集
 全4ページからなる特集で、サケ漁から商品、流通まで、統計データを用いた詳細な解説がなされています。サケを巡る現状を理解する上ではたぶん一番わかりやすくまとめられているように思います。
 で、私が注目したのは、


そこで、改めて新巻鮭に絞ったアンケートを実施してみたところ、全体の70%が新巻鮭を贈られてうれしいと回答した。
半面25%が困る、5%がどちらでもないと回答しており、困ると答えた理由の中では、問題となっている「捌けない」、「調理できない」という答えを大きく上回り、「食べきれない」というのが全体の43%に達していて、核家族化が進む現代の世相を反映する結果となった。次いで「捌けない・解体できない」が20%、「調理できない」が14%となっており、以下「嫌いだから」、「珍しくない」、「収納にこまる」と続き、「嫌いだから」に分類されるなかには、「キングサーモンしか食べない」(44歳男性)といった、秋サケ業界にとっては耳の痛い意見もあった。

年代、男女別集計の結果、特に意外だったのは、「うれしい」と答えたトップの70代以上男性に次いで10~20代女性が77.5%と健闘していること。これは30~40代女性の69.5%、50~60代女性の67%を大きく上回るもので、ようやく若い女性も包丁を手にしだしたか… とも期待したが、詳しく聞いてみると「捌くのはお母さんがするから」(25歳女性)、「切身だともっとうれしい」(23歳女性)といったように、将来に不安を残すのが実態のようだ。

いずれにしても別表が示すとおり、すくなくとも7割が新巻鮭をもらってうれしいと答え、困るといった意見の中でも食べきれない、捌けないといった理由がほとんどで、ほんとうに秋サケが嫌いだと答えたのは、ほんの一握り。若い世代ほど新巻鮭に対する抵抗が少なくなっている傾向を見ても、今後、新巻切身、新巻姿造り等といった、食べやすさの工夫次第によっては、新巻鮭の名誉挽回も大いに期待が持てるといえよう。


という部分です。商品として新巻鮭の魅力がなくなっているということが触れられ、そのため、フレークやスモークサーモンといった加工品で、という動きの中で、お歳暮アンケートでもそれを裏付けるような結果が出たという部分です。
 この部分は私の専門と関わるのですが、お歳暮のサケという習慣と、江戸時代以降の北洋(江戸時代は蝦夷地(北海道)ですが)の開発が密接に関わっているように思っています。さらには、人工孵化放流事業などを推進する一つの基盤にもなっていると思います。なかなか表現が難しいのですが、単に資源の飽和や、先に記事にしたロシアとの関係だけで水産物としてのサケの未来が決まるのではなく、こうした文化と関わり合う中で作られた、日本社会のサケ、という視点も重要だと思います。
 で、お歳暮のサケの関わりですが、また後日にさせてください。(ちょっと大きい話なので、関連の記事を紹介しながらということでm(__)m ちょっと逃げモード)

2004 06 03 10:47 PM | 固定リンク

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コメント

業界新聞は一般紙に比べてヨイショ記事が多いので、そのへんをかなり勘案して読まないとならないですね。特にアンケートは結果先にありきで行う場合もあるので…。

6月からは小学5年生の社会科で水産が取り上げられるので、そのアクセスも増えると思いますよ。

投稿者: kato (Jun 4, 2004 7:21:59 AM)

そうですか。業界新聞に立ち入ったことがほとんどなかったので、勉強になります。結果が先にありきというのは、ありそうですし、この記事のデータでも読み方はいくらでもできるという側面もありますし。
 あと、katoさんのブログで触れられていた6月というのは、そういうことだったんですね。授業などでも調べてくるようにいわれたりするんですかね。どういうアクセス状況になるか楽しみです。(その前に記事を充実させることが先ですね)

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