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スティ-ブストン物語

 バンクーバーのサケ事情についてはバンクーバーのサケ事情として、既に一部、紹介させていただいていますが、今回紹介するのは、河口部の漁港、スティーブストンの日本人移民をめぐるエッセイです。

スティ-ブストン物語

 文中、一章ぶんが「不思議な魚 サケ」として、フレーザー川河口部のサケ漁、特に日本人移民が開発していった加工をめぐる話がまとめられています。長文で、読み応えがありますが、非常に興味深い情報がいくつもあります。
 ちょっと抜粋して紹介しますと


宮城県からも及川甚三郎が率いる一団、82名が密航を企て、船をチャーターして50日かけて太平洋を渡り、入国に成功しています。
 甚三郎は、宮城県で最初という製糸工場を作った男でしたが、進取の気性に富み、たまたまカナダから帰ってきた近在の男から、スティーブストンのサケ漁の話を聞いて、1896年に単身でスティーブストンに行き、3年間漁師として苦労した結果、家族を呼び寄せて、次第に事業を拡大していきます。
 フレーザー河に浮かぶ「ドン島」を買い取り、そこに魚の加工工場を建てたりして、その島はやがて「及川島」と呼ばれるようになりました。しかしこの成功に留まらないのが甚三郎の並外れたところでした。

 このスティーブストンの町の日本人入植に際し、宮城県の人も大きく関わっていることを知りました。この及川島、是非足を運んでみたいものです。
 また、サケについても、

 フレーザー河のサケは5種類ですが、最も珍重されるものは「サッカイ」(sockeye)で、ベニザケと呼ばれています。「チャム」(chum)は白人の漁師からは「ドッグ・サーモン」と言われて、犬しか食わぬものとして評価されなかったのですが、日本の漁師が半干しで塩蔵したものを日本人相手に売り出してからは、人気が出てきました。「ピンク」(pink)も、色が薄くて身が軟らかいので缶詰には不向きとされていましたが、サッカイが不漁の年などから次第に缶詰用に使われています。

とあって、敬遠されてきたシロザケが日本風の加工で人気が出てきた、というところ、

 日本人が好むサケの卵巣(イクラや筋子になります)は、当時はすべて捨てられていました。日本人はこれを回収し、塩蔵にして日本に送り、大いにもうけたそうです。卵巣が立派な商品になったのは、日本人の業績のひとつです。

イクラ製造の開始で日本人が頭角を現してきたというところ、などが、情報としてはおもしろかったところです。このほか、漁法についてや、サケの生態等々、もちろんそれが主題ではないのですが、非常に多くの情報が掲載されています。
 水産物が世界に広がる中で、各地の食文化によりトロは捨てられるとか、イクラは食べないとか、と魚の部位毎の経済的な価値が大きく異なります。スティーブストンで日本人移民があるていど成功した背景は、こうした加工品等が世界市場とかかわりあう過程があることを知ることができます。
 こういう漁港ってアメリカからカナダに掛けてけっっこうあるのでしょうか。サケと日本人、というのは私の興味の中心ですが、どうも現在のサケの文化を考える上では、日本に限定した見方だけではだめそうですね。漁獲量・流通量をみても日本は非常に多いのでしょうが、単に国内市場の開発だけではなく、生産市場?の開発への関わりについても考えてみたくなりました。
 是非、ご一読を。

2004 07 28 04:48 PM | 固定リンク

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