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しもつかれの現在

 昨年も紹介しましたが、栃木周辺では初午の日の行事食に”しもつかれ”というサケを使った料理があります。やはり昨年も書いたのですが、サケの頭部、酒粕等を使う料理と言うことで、独特の臭いもあり、最近ではあまり作られなくなっているとか。そんな中、学校給食にすることで、しもつかれを伝えていこうという動きがあるようです。

リンク: 郷土の味 継承に期待 しもつかれ.
まずリードで


読者のみなさん、先週十日の初午(はつうま)に下野の誇る郷土料理「しもつかれ」は食べられましたか? 仕込みや調理に手間がかかることなどから、若い世帯では作りも食べもしないという家庭も増えているそうです。郷土の味は次世代に伝わるのでしょうか。先月十九-二十一日に三回にわたってまとめた「しもつかれ」連載企画の番外編として、子どもの食育を担う、県内の学校給食でのしもつかれ事情を調べてみました。 (川口 晋介)

とあり、実は連載もしれていたのですね。で、内容を少し引用すると、

■工夫こらす
 とはいえ、「郷土食なので継続していきたい」(益子町)など、多くの給食現場が壁を乗り越えようと努力している。
 子どもが嫌うのが、なじみのない酒かすの香りや、サケの生臭さ。藤岡町のように酒かすを極力減らし、サケの頭やカマは使わず、皮や骨を取った切り身を使うのが主流とか。大根やニンジンをすりおろす「鬼おろし」を使えないため、みじん切りなので、見た目もだいぶ違うようだ。
 ともかく、こうした工夫で「先入観のあった児童が、食べてみたらおいしいと言った」(河内町)との声もあった。
 ■食育で再評価
 児童生徒に不評だったため、ここ数年献立から消えていた那珂川町。「どういうものか知ってもらうことも大切」と新年度は少量出すことを検討している。「今おいしくなくても、大人になったら分かるはず」と“味の継承”に期待をかける。
 ほかにも「小学校三年生の社会科の単元『昔のくらし』の授業に合わせて作っている」(都賀町)など、授業に取り入れている学校もある。こうした試みで、食べたことのない子どもたちの親も作り方や由来を知るきっかけにもなっている。
 県教委の保健給食の担当者は「今は食育、給食の中で食文化を教えることを重視しています。子どもたちに伝わりやすいのは、やはり郷土の料理」と意義を認めている。
 本物とはちょっと違ってはいても、学校給食での体験が「しもつかれ」を将来に伝えていくことにプラスになることは間違いなさそうだ。

ということで、確かに、だいぶん違うようですが、先のエントリーでも書いたように、そもそも”しもつかれ”そのものは地域によりかなりバリエーションの多い食べ物で、必ずしもサケが入るものでもないようですから、これはこれで問題はないと思います。どちらかというと大根、にんじん、酒粕さえそろえばよいのではないでしょうか。
 ただ、サケの視点からいうと、しもつかれはなかなか貴重な郷土食ですし、是非、この料理を後世に残し、今後もスーパーでサケの頭部をパック詰めにして売っていてもらいたいものです。

2006 02 16 06:34 AM | 固定リンク

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食文化は本当に大事なものですよねぇ。もっと長~い目で見た活動をしてほしいなぁ。

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ですね~、こういう活動って地道に進めていく必要がありますから、長い目でやってもらいたいものです。

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